The Rolex Explorer II is more than just a timepiece—it’s a symbol of resilience, utility, and timeless design. Introduced in 1971 and originally built for spelunkers and cave explorers, the Explorer II has matured over five decades into one of Rolex’s most iconic and robust tool watches. While every generation of the Explorer II has left its mark, one reference stands out to collectors and enthusiasts alike: the Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570, launched in 1989.
At Bulang and Sons, we admire not just the functionality of the 16570 but also its enduring legacy. This article explores the full journey of the Explorer II—from its underground origins to its place on the wrists of modern collectors.
The Purpose-Built Origins of the Rolex Explorer II
In the early 1970s, Rolex took a bold step by creating a watch specifically for cave explorers. Known as spelunkers, these adventurers often worked in environments with no natural light, where the line between AM and PM could blur. The Explorer II ref. 1655, released in 1971, addressed this problem with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an extra orange-tipped hour hand that helped indicate whether it was day or night.
The 1655 was unconventional for its time, both in function and design. Its dial was cluttered compared to Rolex’s typically clean aesthetic, and it didn’t offer dual-time functionality—something introduced later in the Explorer II’s evolution. Initially underappreciated, the 1655 is now revered as a vintage Rolex grail watch. Known as the “Freccione” and sometimes the “Steve McQueen Explorer II” (despite no proof McQueen wore one), it paved the way for future references that would become true cult classics.
The Evolution of the Explorer II: From Ref. 1655 to Ref. 16570
Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 (1971–1985)
- 39mm stainless steel case
- Fixed steel bezel with 24-hour scale
- Caliber 1575 movement
- Orange 24-hour hand, heavy tritium lume
- Multiple dial variants (Mark I to V)
Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550 (1985–1989)
- 40mm case, sapphire crystal
- Caliber 3085 with independent 24-hour hand
- Mercedes-style hands and updated dial layout
- Black and white dial options
- “Cream dial” effect on white dials is highly collectible
The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570: A Modern Classic
Released in 1989, the Explorer II ref. 16570 carried forward the upgrades from its predecessor and refined the line even further. It was produced for over two decades, making it one of the longest-running Explorer references in Rolex history.
Technical Features:
- 40mm Oyster case
- Caliber 3185 (early) and 3186 (later)
- Sapphire crystal and steel bezel
- Fixed 24-hour bezel with engraved numerals
- Solid end links in later models
Dial Variations:
- Black Dial – classic and versatile
- White “Polar” Dial – with black hour marker surrounds
- Lume progression: Tritium → Luminova → SuperLuminova
Anti-Counterfeiting Features:
- Mid-2000s: Engraved rehaut (“ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX”)
- Laser-etched crown in sapphire crystal
Why the Rolex Explorer II 16570 Remains a Collector Favorite
1. Adventure-Ready Yet Elegant
The 16570 remains surprisingly elegant despite its utilitarian roots. It wears well across occasions, offering a perfect blend of function and refinement.
2. Dual Time Function
Its independently adjustable 24-hour hand makes it ideal for frequent travelers or those working across time zones.
3. Vintage Appeal, Modern Reliability
Later models offer updated technology while maintaining the visual cues that make the reference so collectible.
4. Strong Entry Point for Collectors
It offers excellent value for money and strong potential for appreciation, making it an ideal first or fifth Rolex
Post-16570 References: Modern Takes on a Classic
Explorer II Ref. 216570 (2011–2021)
- 42mm case size
- Maxi dial with larger markers
- Caliber 3187 movement
- Return of the orange 24-hour hand
- Black and white dial options
Explorer II Ref. 226570 (2021–Present)
- Slimmer 42mm case with refined lugs
- Caliber 3285 with 72-hour power reserve
- Matte PVD-coated hands (white version)
- Updated bracelet and improved dial finishes
Timeless Design Across the Explorer II Line
Throughout every generation, the Explorer II has retained several signature traits:
- 100m water resistance
- Stainless steel case and bracelet
- Fixed 24-hour bezel
- Dual time capability
- Reliable functionality with understated design
Read more
The Vintage Watch Hunting Club 2024 Event - Part 1
Stay tuned for more detailed articles on the watches.For now please enjoy some of the amazing people and watches at the event... At the Chateau we also had a nice surprise. Als a meeting of Lam...
Meer informatie